- History of Smoking By Alan Spence The smoking of fish has been a means of preserving the seasonal abundance of certain types of fish since the Neolithic times.  At the sites of what are still the best fishing areas on Scottish rivers there is evidence that as early as 200 years B.C., fish were caught and dried over fires.  The absence of bones suggests that the catch would then be carried off for the long winter months.  This would sustain life until the spring runs of salmon returned. The Scottish climate is such that the more customary air-drying could not be relied upon - hence the use of fires.  It is questionable if the benefits of smoke were understood and flavor was of consideration. As settlements became more established, the fish would be hung from the roof beams and would have remained there continuously drying and smoking until consumed, sometimes many months later. Species of fish which were not migratory and available fresh, even in winter, such as trout, would not have been preserved in this manner.  This would also apply to shellfish. This basic method remained the primary means of preserving salmon until the 15th century.  At this time, a substantial trade to Europe and the Mediterranean developed, with  small boats carrying thousands of barrels of pickled and salted salmon, and returning with barrels of wine, salt, olives and so on. However, the custom of smoking continued.  The last run of salmon in September and October used were termed back-end fish (or last run).  These fish tended to have lower oil content than the summer and spring runs.  Smokers would not have indulged themselves by adding spices, sugars or whiskey.  The wood used would be whatever was burning in the fire.  They were not concerned with flavor.  As the salmon could be caught along the entire river system and with many rivers in Scotland, this process was widely used throughout the countryside. Salmon was in such seasonal abundance that only an inconsiderate Lord or Master of the House would have obliged his servants or workers to consume salmon more than four times a week.  However, with smoking, it could be an invaluable source of nutrition and significant in an otherwise deficient diet. The advent of refrigeration meant that salmon could now become much more of a delicacy by reducing the need for very high levels of salt, and what would now be considered excessive drying.  This coincided with drastically improved transportation systems, which allowed this glorious product to be available to a much wider market.  This brought about the virtual rebirth of the Scottish Smoked Salmon industry and the demise of the salting in barrels. It is interesting that in areas where air-drying could be accomplished without the use of fires and where salmon were found in abundance, a similar product was produced, such as Nova Lox.  Spence and Co., Ltd. employ the same basic principles to smoking salmon.  However, with the advent of refrigeration and a year-round supply of salmon, we are now permitted to smoke and salt with the ultimate taste in mind.  We invite you to taste the difference. -